'Wines of the Week' Jancis Robinson

Posted by Gavin Quinney on 2nd Mar 2016

'Wines of the Week' on JancisRobinson.com, 26 February 2016. A lovely piece by Richard Hemming MW. Here's a slightly cut down version - i.e. the Bauduc bit.

'The Entre-Deux-Mers region in Bordeaux is indeed between two seas. One is an ocean of money washing around the luxurious grands crus of the Médoc, the other is a great lake of unwanted plonk. Both are choppy waters, and charting the right course between them can be as tortuous as this metaphor.

'I visited Entre-Deux-Mers last year and was impressed not only by the quality of most wines, but also by the resilience and fortitude of the producers. Two in particular impressed me with their humility and determination. Both happen to produce delicious white wines at excellent prices: Châteaux Thieuley and Bauduc.

'Thieuley is run by the Courselle sisters, Marie and Sylvie, who inherited the estate from their father…

'A short drive away is Château Bauduc, run by genial ex-pat Brit Gavin Quinney - familiar to these pages through his regular progress reports on each year’s growing season in Bordeaux. He also makes two dry white wines, but segregates the varieties. Ch Bauduc Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Bordeaux is a welcome change from the Loire model of piercing citrus and slate, relying instead on ripe yellow fruit flavour and viscous mouthfeel. Les Trois Hectares is a majority Sémillon blend from a single vineyard planted in 1947. It reminded me in many ways of Hunter Valley Semillon with its toasty, waxy character, and is another example of inexpensive white Bordeaux that over-delivers handsomely for the price - as low as £10.67 when six bottles are bought via their website. [What excellent taste Richard has. Ch Bauduc Blanc 2009 was a wine of the week of mine back in 2011 - JR]'