‘Points v prices’ often throws up some anomalies but we couldn’t
resist these scores by Jancis Robinson, the UK’s most respected critic. (Source:
www.jancisrobinson.com). Prices are per bottle, UK.
Château Mouton Rothschild blanc 2009, £70, 16 points/20
Château Bauduc blanc 2009, £9, 16.5 points/20
Château Haut Brion blanc 2009, £750, 17 points/20
pager Gavin Quinney must be a pretty good salesman. He has managed to
have his wine served as the house white chez both Gordon Ramsay and
Rick Stein, completely unrelated world-famous television chefs. In fact
Ch Bauduc Bordeaux Blanc has been Ramsay's house white (as witness
this particular label) for 10 years now.
delighted to say, however, that he is not such a persistent salesman
that he has actively tried to sell his wines direct to me. (Thank you,
Gavin.) I had to wait until From Vineyards Direct sent me three of
their recent finds to try before being exposed to Ch Bauduc 2009 Bordeaux
Blanc, which I strongly commend to you at the FVD price of £8.95 a
bottle - the same price as the Quinneys sell from their warehouse in
Bauduc is one of those hundreds of properties in the pretty
Entre-Deux-Mers region struggling to make a living and an impact on the
international market. Gavin and Angela Quinney have been running this
property near Créon in the far north of the region since Gavin went mad
and bought it after a rush of blood to the head at Vinexpo exactly 12
years ago. You can read Jane Anson's short profile of them and the
property here. They sell much of their wine direct (this is the link for this particular wine) - a wise alternative to being entangled in the middle-man-heavy conventional Bordeaux trade.
this particular wine is also listed by the Swedish monopoly
Systembolaget, by Well Spring Wines in Hong Kong, a handful of UK
retailers and by From Vineyards Direct's Irish operation. It's a blend
of 60% Sauvignon Blanc with 40% of its richer near-relative Sémillon (see my comment below the Master of Wine 2011 tasting papers).
It almost tastes Sémillon-dominant to me - there is certainly no
excess of facile Sauvignon stink. In 2009 much of the fruit came from
leased vineyards because the Quinneys lost 80% of their own grapes in
two hailstorms in May 2009. (Note that the Quinneys also make a
slightly cheaper 50:50 Entre Deux Mers dry white.)
I liked about this wine was its crystal clear, particularly precise,
piercing nose followed by attractive smokiness and good palate weight. In
fact this has so much extract (no excessive yields here) that there is
just a tiniest hint of the oiliness of some white Graves, but it rises
above this to be a thoroughly fine dry white bordeaux (and it's much
cheaper than most white Graves). Residual sugar is 2.94g/l and acidity
is 3.9. I would chill this quite heavily for aperitif drinking but,
served at room temperature, it would make a lovely wine at the table.
Simon Hoggart, The Spectator magazine:
"Château Bauduc lost 80% of their white grapes in dreadful
hailstorms in 2009 but, undeterred, they have produced a deliciously crisp, dry
white from 60% Sauvignon and 40% Sémillon, hand picked from the Château’s own
vineyards and also from a newly leased vineyard nearby. Highly recommended as
an apéritif, for large gatherings or à table with fish or white meat dishes."